My top 10 Mumbai eateries

Of recent times, there is compelling social pressure to try new restaurants in the extremely active culinary market of Mumbai city. I have to very strongly ‘scrooge’ this and advocate sticking to the tried & tasted (pun intended duh). And for good reasons.

First, we struggle to import ingredients that are not typical to our agro-produce. Then, even if that gets sorted, the infrastructure is ill-equipped to ensure storage and preservation under the right conditions while the imports patiently wait to be cleared by our tireless, valiant customs officers (smell the sarcasm?). And then, adding insult to injury are our restauranteurs – most are MBA catch-phrase spewing dudes who think it would be ‘cool’ to own a restaurant. Only to turn it from the start into a liquor-pushing, music-pumping lounge. Or ‘resto-bar’ as they get labelled, in a shameless attempt to try to balance priorities. And fail.

So give me our Kolkatta Indo-Chine migrants and their woks, the Udipi dosa kings and their idli steamer; not to mention the Dilli dhaba dudes… and maybe one or two exceptions to this rule of genuinely passionate self-proclaimed chefs who cook to please.

Presenting my no-nonsense, no-frills Mumbai top 10 eateries, in no specific order, available for your critique and sampling:

Britannia – If only to be fussed over by Bomi Uncle, the octogenarian and counting, solitary owner of the 93+ year old Irani/ Parsi eating institution on Ballard Estate, and to be regaled by his quips about his son, grandson and great grandson who man the till and entrance, you must find a way to lunch (they only operate between noon & 4PM, Monday to Saturday) here. My favorite eat-fest here includes moist, steamed patra-ni-machhi (steamed fish stuffed with green chutney), sali boti (chunks of marinated mutton stewed in a spicy curry paste and topped with grated potato crisps) and the classic ghee-soaked chapattis. The berry-pulao is a staple, and for those who enjoy a dry version of a biryani, this could be it.

Trishna – People crib about their prices and priciness (bordering racism to hold tables for the gora foreigners) but all that prejudice melts away once the table weighs down with their signature butter-pepper-garlic jumbo crab (be adventurous and have it in the shell), hyderabadi pomfret tikka (chunks of grilled flesh covered in coarse black pepper), koliwada prawns (vermillion masala batter fried). spicy chilli squid and all this swiped with gassi-soaked naans. The fare is a standard by itself and rarely is it out of form. Earn your stripes, become a regular and watch all attitude melt away. So worth it.

China Garden – Right up there is the never-failing, always delivering pioneer of Indian Chinese fare. The old favorite was missed when it unceremoniously vacated its Kemps Corner abode. The return was welcomed by all faithful and new converts every day. Chomp down menu pillars like Chou Chiu Prawns, Pepper Chicken (remove the MSG and it’s chicken tikka bits; add the MSG and its a mad delight), Steamed Veg Wantons (served up like a hash of noodle strips and tinned button mushrooms), Onion Pancakes (calories be damned, it is deep deep fried), Barbeque spare ribs, Fried Chilli Garlic Crab with fried Chinese buns, Moon Faan (fortune rice – steamed rice flavored with oyster sauce, aniseed and button mushrooms)… I could go on. There are new additions every now and then, and recent times the Garoupa fish fillets steamed in an olive paste is TDF. But end of the day, I go there for one thing – comfort food.

Ling’s Pavillion – In everyone’s life there is a restaurant, a place, where no matter how old you are, the staff always remember you as a kid. Ling’s is that nostalgic bookmark in mine. The food consistently and magically conjures memories of my childhood – nanking prawns (my maternal grandmother’s favorite). It reminds me of the ‘eat or be eaten’ principle at our family dining table (see us polish off platters of Singapore Chilli Crab with the sauce scooped in steamed Chinese buns). And it always is the start of new culinary experiences (Jumping prawns, which are eaten shell et al). 

Indigo Deli – Five years ago the first eatery was opened astutely by chef Rahul Akerkar. It held its ground to iron out teething service issues and today serves packed houses all day. There are many ‘also-rans’ and ‘likewise’ places that fall into the western diner concept, but this Colaba haunt remains my firm favorite when I crave a Philly cheese steak sandwich, or eggs benedict, or their very unusual wafer-thin pizza dressed with parma ham or chorizo, as you please. The desserts also manage to please and I am a sucker for the lemon curd tart – not for everyone but what a kick!

Gajalee – there are restaurants where one feels like a stakeholder in their success. For me, that is Gajalee. The coastal food haven that started literally in a shed with a few benches on Hanuman Road in Vile Parle. Now it has branches. And an air-conditioned section. Most of the old timer staff remain, only now they sport ties and bright yellow shirts. The food – well, I swear by the stuff at the point of origin. Thank god the sea-link has brought it that much closer to home! So my order here typically consists of the indigenous Bombil Fry (deep fried deboned Bombay Duck), Aachari prawns (killer spice, I’m not kidding), Teesrya Masala (clams cooked in coconut and black pepper), Tandoori Crab (in the shell, finger-licking good masala) and the Daal Khichdi (rice and lentil, flavored and steamed to a near puree state). 

Panchvati Gaurav – How can a Mumbai food list be complete without a shudh vegetarian thali restaurant? For those who don’t know, a thali is a large steel platter, equipped with about half a dozen steel bowls around its circumference. In a thali restaurant, the owner pre-sets a balanced menu for the day which comprises of two dry vegetable masala preparations, one vegetable in a curry form, two daals (lentils). Apart from this, the platter gets ladened with different types of rotis (Indian breads), rice, khichdi, pickles, savories. Outside the platter sit glasses of chilled buttermilk, meant to neuter the spice. And finally, a calorie-infested Indian dessert. Each thali restaurant boasts of its specialities and function in an efficient, eat-all-you -can, served-at-the-table, faster-than-you-can-blink manner. Total value for money, and that’s what I love about Panchvati. A network of branches can now be found all over Mumbai, but I still flock to the one behind Bombay Hospital. The food is always prepared light (and that’s an achievement in India), and the service is friendly despite its aggression to feed you to death.

Bade Miyan – You haven’t been Bombay-baptized if you haven’t feasted on Muslim staple food served up from the best street cart service in the world. Bade Miyan wins hands down for resisting the temptation to go legit and indoors, despite amassing fortunes by feeding Mumbai’s nightly prowlers, from dusk to dawn (literally), in a by-lane right behind the fancy Taj Mahal Hotel. Now, it is a couple of carts, territory management of the entire lane for parking cars and seating patrons on plastic chairs along the sidewalks. And yes, the paper napkins have Bade Miyan printed on them! Now that’s posh! Anticipate needing an acidity check and that being sorted, dive into a meal fit for the Mughals! Reshmi Kebabs (chicken morsels marinated in cream and roasted in a spitfire oven), Seekh Kebabs (minced lamb or beef or chicken patties skewered and treated the same way but with spices), Tandoori chicken… and for the brave-hearted, the spares like brain, liver, spleen and what-have-you, are all marinated and cooked in spicy sauces or grilled, as you like it. Best of all are the hand tossed roomali rotis (as thin as handkerchiefs) that could just as well be flung from the fire to the palate. It all works in perfect synchronicity to ensure that what started out like a messy affair to consume on the bonnet of the car, ends like a royal experience, with your hands being washed by the water bearer, just for the job! Only one rule – come drunk if you must but no drinks allowed.

Tibb’s Frankie (Shivaji Park) – McDonalds’ eat your heart out! For more than three decades now, the famous North Indian (or is it Kolkatta) kathi roll was improvised to suit the Mumbaikar’s taste buds for a more slurpy, spicy filling. And that’s how Tibb’s Frankie was born. And delivered through franchisees around the city, with stalls that supply to queues of hungry patrons. The menu on offer is simple – you have the Mutton Frankie, the Chicken Frankie, the Veg Frankie and the Paneer Frankie. My preference is consistently the first one. It is a classic. Fleshy chunks of marinated mutton are dressed in a masala gravy, spread on an omelet fused flour roti, garnished with chopped onions and chillies, rolled and dropped into a snug paper bag that fails to resist the moisture from soaking through as the Frankie gets devoured to its last bites. My mouth is watering just writing this! My pick of all franchisees is the one at Shivaji Park. It does robust business, the turnover of ingredients ensures freshness and well, it tastes the best.

Cafe Noorani – The final honors on this list go to Cafe Noorani, located at the corner of Haji Ali and Tardeo, which serves Punjabi/ North Western India cuisine and is owned by a god-fearing Keralite. It’s ideal for take-away, but sometimes, when you really aren’t seeking ambience or atmosphere, grab a table and prepare for a burp-feast. The kebabs are succulent, the bheja masala is a classic. And I love their bread-naans – no eggy smell; nice a fluffy. Best of all, and this is my all-time favorite food, sink your teeth into the plumpest of plump Tandoori Chicken leg pieces. I am convinced they inject steroids into their poultry because the size is completely alien to any other restaurant in Mumbai. And the masala, it is deep red, fire hot and potent. Worth every bite. 

Post script – restaurants/ eateries listed here are local, expected dress code is casual, most don’t require prior reservation and tips are never included. Most of all, they are best enjoyed in the company of like-minded good food-seeking souls. Bon appetite!